A quick note for our listeners: After this episode, we will be taking a break until the new year. We have many more oral histories to post in 2024, so stay tuned. Happy Holidays! This episode features part 6 of a 6-part series of Jeff Lowe's oral history which was recorded in 2009 as part of the Everett Cooley Oral History Project. Jeff was interviewed by a group of historians (including Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, Matt Driscoll, and Cheri Daily) in his hometown of Ogden, Utah. Jeff Lowe was an accomplished mountaineer, developed climbing equipment, authored many books, and organized many events and festivals such as the Snowbird World Cup competitions, and ice climbing in the Winter X games. The first section of audio Jeff talks about the evolution of climbing gear over his lifetime. The second audio section focuses on Jeff's climbing instruction and climbing events he participated in. The audio sections in this episode include U-2037 and U-2042 in the transcript linked to at the bottom of the episode notes. This podcast will be taking a break until the new year - happy & safe holidays to our listeners! We have many more oral histories to post in 2024, so stay tuned.
Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library