This episode features an interview with James Garrett, conducted by Matt Driscoll in 2010, while they were eating at a restaurant (please excuse the background noise). James is best known for his development of routes in the back country and areas off the beaten path - particularity in Utah's west desert. James has extensively traveled and climbed internationally.
Garrett was born in Duluth, Minnesota, started skiing when he was around six or seven years old, and eventually moved to Montana, where he continued to pursue skiing. He moved to Switzerland, met his wife, Franziska, and discovered climbing under the influence of the Von Kämel brothers, Swiss mountain guides. James returned to the States in 1980 and worked as a ski patroller in Colorado before eventually settling in Salt Lake City with his wife in 1981. James draws frequent comparisons between the American and European climbing ethic, noting the support provided to climbing by government institutions in Europe. He is an accomplished first ascensionist, having developed new routes in the Wasatch and the West Desert, among other places. He discusses the development of climbing in Utah's West Desert, specifically an area called Ibex. James wrote a guidebook on climbing in the West Desert and responds to questions about the qualities that a good guidebook should have, alluding to the Ruckman guidebook on Wasatch climbing as a model text. He continues to climb actively, often traveling international to climb in new places and experience different cultures. Interview is part of the Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll